It was the first world war that ultimately aligned political forces behind the dairy business. In Britain, rationing meant food was limited, and child malnutrition was rife. Thanks to government price controls, milk was one thing not in short supply. A Local and Global History.
The message was clear: And yet, for many consumers, the allure of milk is on the wane. In , the average American consumed pounds around litres of milk per year; in , it was just pounds 66 litres. But none of these presented an existential threat. Blanket marketing established the connection between milk and wholesomeness and good nutrition. Now new forms of persuasion, more targeted and pervasive, have stripped away that healthy sheen from dairy.
The internet has given animal rights activists new reach. Netflix, too, has provided previously untapped audiences for documentaries like Cowspiracy and What the Health. Besides the ill-treatment of animals, evidence has mounted that the dairy industry is catastrophic for the environment. Animal agriculture contributes more greenhouse gases than aviation, shipping and road vehicles combined. One recent study led by Oxford University claimed that observing a vegetarian or vegan diet is the single most effective way to reduce your own environmental footprint.
Plant milks received a boost from their association with clean eating, a craze that has also had the effect of linking dairy with negative health issues. Its proponents blamed lactose intolerance as the cause of a range of ailments, including acne, eczema, lethargy, joint pain and a variety of digestive issues. And, as the clean eaters warned their readers off dairy, they sent them into the willing arms of plant milk startups. A steady supply of attractive millennial influencers filled their Instagram feeds with appetising shots of peanut-milk Thai curries and gluten-free beetroot bread.
According to industry analysts, one of the keys to the plant-based trend is that it looks appetising on Instagram. The clean eaters did what years of vegan campaigning never could. It was part of living your best and most beautiful life.
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T he notion of milking plants is not new. In China, soya milk has been made since at least the 14th century, most commonly as a step in making tofu. The earliest written mention of almond milk appears in a Baghdadi cookbook from , the Kitab al-Tabikh. A Biography, launched an entire genre of food microhistories. In the west, until recently, almond and soya milk remained relatively unknown, except by vegetarians and the odd eccentric Henry Ford, of the car company, was an early soya evangelist. In , the Plantmilk Society was established in London by Leslie Cross, then vice-president of the British Vegan Society, a nascent group of animal rights activists.
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Cross, who particularly objected to the cruelty of the dairy industry, set about trying to find a dairy replacement using crops that could be grown in Britain. Photos from the time show the smiling pioneers in white lab coats examining many glasses of questionable opaque liquids. Eventually, they settled on the soya bean. In , a young Belgian food tech named Philippe Vandemoortele decided to use a new packing technology, the sterile Tetra Brik, to sell soya milk.
He called his soya milk Alpro. Reviews were mixed. The local supermarket refused to stock it.
At the same time, Silk, Alpro and others jumped on emerging evidence about the link between high cholesterol and heart disease to market themselves as a healthy alternative. All of a sudden, soya was for everyone. Even modern soya milks, which add sugar, thickeners and other additives to imitate dairy milk, have a beany taste and odour. In the early s, soya had its own health scare. Clinical studies have consistently shown those fears are overstated.
In , the Blue Diamond Growers, a large cooperative of almond farmers in California, sensed an opportunity. Supermarkets maintain a tight grip on shelf space, charging high fees to stock a new product. Lucrative, high-traffic displays like the refrigerated case are fiercely competitive. The owners of Silk at that time — the dairy giant Dean Foods — had leveraged its industry clout to get Silk positioned alongside milk.
Blue Diamond started in Florida, targeting neighbourhoods with large Hispanic populations, who have a higher genetic incidence of lactose intolerance. Meanwhile, the California almond industry embarked on a vast marketing spree, funding — and publicising — new research into the health benefits of almonds. The effect was immediate. Almond Breeze was so successful that within two years Silk launched its own almond milk to try and keep up. By , almond had overtaken soya as the best-selling plant milk in the US.
A San Francisco startup called Ripple claims to have developed a hi-tech process to isolate the protein in yellow peas without any of the associated flavours or colourings. Mitchell comes from an esteemed line of food technologists: In the s, she helped develop Rice Dream. Elmhurst was a dairy for 90 years; at its peak, it supplied public schools and Starbucks branches across Manhattan. But in , its owners sold off the cattle and switched to plant milk.
It now sells 11 varieties. It seems every ingredient has its acolytes. Launched by Camilla and Nick Barnard in , Rude Health started out selling muesli, but quickly grew into a small health food empire. It was the tail end of a heatwave, at brunch time, and the Rude Health Cafe hummed with healthy looking professionals sipping cashew lattes. Nick, who has sharp features, grey hair, and wore an open-collared white shirt, ordered a kombucha. Rude Health had attracted negative press in , after some vegans became incensed at a company blogpost promoting sustainable dairy.
Why do you have to be for or against? Rude Health got into plant milks in , selling three flavours: Rival products and plant-based cookbooks lined the shelves. Due to epic Guild Wars 2 items are important to conquer the raids or end- game bosses, GW2 players are recommended to buy Guild Wars 2 item from a list of reputable GW2 items sellers at g2g.
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